Barcelona emerged from the Middle Ages as a city that had reached the limits of its possible growth in size, and in the long centuries of stagnation that followed there were some attempts to bring order to the city and its social fabric.

The walls of the thirteenth century sheltered the viles noves (new houses) built outside the area of the Roman city, and from the fourteenth century onwards Barcelona gained a third stretch of walls, around the cultivated fields of the Raval area.

After the departure of the royal court, the Mediterranean seemed small and insignificant alongside the Atlantic trade. Within the confines of the newly established city, Barcelona erected a Gothic city around its geometric and political centre, Plaça Sant Jaume.

Meanwhile, artisans flourished around the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, in the barri (neighbourhood) of La Ribera. Barcelona became a city of merchants, navigators, traders and professionals. Especially noteworthy about the city at this time was the level of communal participation in forming its corporate identity, and its selective and gradual approach to affairs. This was the Barcelona of the gremis (guilds).

Between the fourth and the thirteenth century the city nucleus founded by the Romans was consolidated, and a process of expansion began that later would give a definitive shape to the city. After many political upheavals and the retreat of Moorish Spain, Barcelona experienced feudalism and a growing maritime trade, which allowed it to strengthen its position as a political, religious and trade centre.

The most important features of the city’s growth at this time were the new ravals (suburbs), viles noves (new houses built outside the old city) and the embellishment of the city centre.

At the end of the thirteenth century a second city wall was built to give protection to the new ravals around the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar, where the thriving viles noves of the mercadal (merchants), the port traders and the rec comtal (rich counts) were to be found.

Since the Romans founded the small colony of Barcino in the first century BC, the city of Barcelona has been growing and changing. In the surrounding area remains of old native settlements have been found, even from the late Bronze Age. Nevertheless, the dated remains of the two Roman walls clearly show that Barcino was the first structured urban nucleus on the whole plain. A nucleus which would be kept walled – with different outlines – until well into the nineteenth century when the Cerdà plan of the so-called Eixample tore down the last walls to join with other settlements, such as Sants, Gràcia and Sant Martí de Provençals.

The origins of the city of Barcelona date from the first century BC, when the Romans established a small colony around the Taber Mount, now Placa Sant Jaume.

The Roman cities in Catalonia were small but they formed a compact and well-linked network which covered the whole country. Some were created on the sites of the old Iberian villages; some, like Barcino, moved the established indigenous settlements to more easily-defended plain regions, or to key positions on high points between two rivers. In this way Barcino became part of Eastern Hispania, the capital of which was Tarraco, now Tarragona.

Montjuic is the hill to the left of the city when looking from the sea. A significant landmark in Barcelona with a tempestuous history, Montjuic is a fascinating mix of old and new, the natural and the man-made, with gardens, woodlands, stadiums, amphitheatres, a castle, palace, cemetery…

MNAC – National Museum of Catalan Art

Palau Nacional. Open from Tues to Sat 10.00 – 19.00, Sun 10.00 – 14.30.

This museum, located in the massive Palau Nacional (National Palace), was recently renovated by the architect Gae Aulenti and houses some of the best examples of Romanesque frescoes and art in Europe. It also has a fantastic collection of gothic art and interesting temporary exhibitions.

The 1992 Olympic Installations

Behind the MNAC is the Olympic Stadium: originally built in 1929, it was elegantly renovated for the 1992 Olympics and has a capacity for 65,000 people. Behind this, the huge steel and glass Palau Sant Jordi is an extraordinary feat of engineering and design by the Japanese architect Arata Isozaki. Down the road are the Olympic Swimming Pool and Sports University by architect Ricardo Bofill. And towering above them all is the striking telecommunications tower by the Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava.

Fundació Miró

Av. Miramar. Open from Tues to Sat 10.00 – 19.00, Thurs 10.00 – 21.30, Sun 10.00 – 14.30.

Designed by the internationally known Catalan architect Josep Lluis Sert, the Miró Foundation houses both the artist’s work and the gifts he received from fellow painters and sculptors. There are also frequent temporary exhibitions that tend towards modern and avant-garde art.

Mies Van der Rohe Pavilion

Av. Marquès de Comilles. Open 10.00 – 20.00 daily.

Originally built as the German contribution to the 1929 Exhibition, the Pavilion was rebuilt for the Olympics and is a fine example of Van der Rohe’s minimalist work.

That is, The Expansion, the uniform grid of straight avenues and square blocks designed by Ildefons Cerdà at the turn-of-the-century as a solution to chronic overcrowding within the old city walls. Infuriating and impressive in equal measures.

Casa Milà or ‘La Pedrera’

C/ Provença, 261-265. Open every day from 9.00 – 18.30 in winter or 9.00 – 20.00 in summer.

Casa Milà is one of Gaudí’s best-known buildings. When it was built, public opinion condemned it as ugly, hence its other name ‘La Pedrera’, The Quarry. The top floor now houses the ‘Espai Gaudi’, a small museum that provides an excellent introduction to the architect’s work. The roof of the building features the famous and extraordinary chimneys, plus spectacular views of Passeig de Gracia. One of the apartments has been opened to the public to provide an insight into Gaudí’s interior design concepts. The Caixa de Catalunia Foundation also holds interesting temporary exhibitions.

Casa Batlló & Casa Amatller

Passeig de Gracia 41 & 43. Open Mon – Fri 10.00 – 13.00.

These neighbouring buildings located on Passeig de Gracia are two of Modernism’s finest examples. On the left, designed by Puig i Cadafalch in 1900 for Antoni Amatller, a chocolate manufacturer, is Casa Amatller. On the right, Casa Batlló, renovated by Gaudí in 1907. Casa Batlló is perhaps best known for its striking façade, inspired some say by the scales of St. George’s dragon, others by a Venetian mask. Casa Batlló is currently owned by a private company and cannot be visited.

Fundació Antoni Tapies

C/ Aragón, 255. Currently closed for renovation work.

Antoni Tapies (b. 1935) is one of Spain’s best-known living artists. His foundation contains a permanent collection of his own work plus exhibits of avant-garde artists. Housed in one of Domènec i Montaner’s first buildings, the red brick façade with wire mesh on the rooftop is easily recognizable and visually striking. Built in 1880, it was originally used as the printing press and offices of the publishing firm Montaner i Simón. For contemporary art fanatics and lovers of interior design.

Sagrada Familia

C/ Mallorca, 401. Open daily from 9.00 – 18.00 in winter and 9.00 – 20.00 in summer.

The Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family, to give it its full name, is a building that either inspires awe or horror, but never leaves anybody indifferent: George Orwell thought the Anarchists showed bad taste in not blowing it up when they had the chance. The cathedral has two complementing façades, one by Gaudí, the other by sculptor Josep Maria Subirachs. For an insight into Gaudi’s somewhat vague intentions for the site, visit the crypt. It is also well worth climbing the stairs for a closer inspection of the sculptures, the construction work that is expected to continue for several more decades and, of course, the view from the top.

The Old Town. The Maze. The Centre. El Barrio Gótico. El Raval. El Borne. Barcelona at its best (in our humble opinion).

Museo d´Historia de la Cuidad

Located in the beautiful Plaça del Rei, directly above the Roman city of Barcino, this museum gives a good overview of the history of Barcelona from Roman times to the present. You can visit the Roman ruins under the museum as well as the earliest Christian remains of the city.

Museo Picasso

C/ Montcada, 15-23. Open Tues to Sun from 10.00 – 20.00.

Housed in three separate palaces, this museum contains the best of Picasso’s earliest pieces, as well as giving an overview of his life’s work. The museum also organizes temporary exhibitions of both Picasso’s and other artists´ work.

Palau Guell

C/ Nou de la Rambla, 3-5. Open Tues to Sat, 10.00 – 14.30.

This mansion was commissioned by Count Eusebi de Güell, Gaudi´s main patron in his early career as an architect. It is an interesting example of both Gaudí’s earlier work and his vision of interior design. On the roof is a very good example of his decorated chimneys. Visits by guided tour only.

MACBA (Museum of Contemporary Art of Barcelona)

Plaça dels Angels, 1. Open Weekdays (except Tues) from 11.00 – 19.30, Sat 10.00 to 20.00 & Sun from 10.00 to 15.00. Extended opening hours on Thurs & Fri in summer.

Built by the town hall in one of the most depressed areas of Barcelona, this museum has been a catalyst for regeneration in the Raval. The striking white building was designed by the American architect Richard Maier to house contemporary artworks from Spain and elsewhere, plus avant-garde exhibitions on art and architecture.

We can never provide enough useful info. If you know something we don’t, or think there’s an essential titbit missing from here. Let us know, por favor.

Català o Castellano?
Aahh the confusion of coming to a foreign city and trying to get your tongue around just one new language. Aahh the confusion of coming to Barcelona and seeing signs in not one but two foreign tongues – which is which? And which do they prefer? Catalan and Spanish share official status in the entire region of Catalonia and, although almost everyone has a strong opinion on which should be the official language, most know both well enough to hold a conversation or to answer a visitor’s question. If foreign languages fail to trip easily off your tongue, not to worry, many of the tourist places have staff that speak other languages, particularly English, French and Italian. Although a bon dia will always win you brownie points.

Spanish Time
The Official Version: Spanish time is GMT+1. It applies Daylight Saving Time during spring and summer, which means from the last Sunday in March until the last one in October, the time is GMT+2.
The Unofficial Version: Spanish time doesn’t mean what it says on the clock. Midday is in the middle of the afternoon. The afternoon is the evening to most of us. They actually have a name for the early hours of the morning when most of us are asleep and some of us are up till that time that we call the early hours of the morning (madrugada). And if they invite you to dinner at 9pm, do not whatever you do arrive at 9pm, they will still be washing their hair. (This rule does not apply to restaurant reservations…)

Drinking Water…
Hmm, in theory the tap water in Barcelona is safe to drink… But this often depends on where you’re staying and how much you like the taste of chlorine. Bottled water is available in every corner store: the bigger the bottle, the cheaper the drink.

Plugs
Plugs are the two-pin versions and electricity lines have a current of between 220V and 230V, with a 50Hz frequency. So now you have no excuse for blowing the lights on your rental apartment.

Phones
The country code for Spain is 34: you should use this when calling to Spain from outside. The international call code in Spain is 00: you should dial 00 + country code + phone number to make an international call from Spain.

(photo by perrimoon)

February

• Carnaval: Fancy dress craziness and pre-Lent indulgence. Sitges (south of BCN).

March

• La Fiesta de San Medir: Get caught in the cross-fire of a sweet street battle – for kids. Gracia.
• Mecal: Barcelona international short film festival. Sala Apolo.
• Barcelona Marathon: keep running. Starts and ends at Avenida María Cristina.

April

• Fiesta de San Jordi: Get romantic with roses (for her) and books (for him… and her). All over!
• Asian Film Festival. CCCB.
• Bike Show BCN. Palau Sant Jordi.
• Formula One: Spanish Grand Prix. Circuit de Catalunya.
• Open Seat Godo: Professional tennis event. Real Club de Tennis.

May

• Fira de Sant Ponç: Herb fair in honour of the patron saint of the birds and the bees and the herbs. C/ Hospital.
• Corpus Christi and the Dancing Egg: Yes, there is indeed a dancing egg. Barcelona Cathedral.
• Barcelona Poesía: International poetry festival. Streets, cafes and theatres.
• Primavera Sound: Indie-Rock music festival. Parc del Forum.

June

• La Noche de San Juan: Summer madness beach party and fireworks galore. Streets and beaches.
• Sonar: twiddly beep beep electronica festival. Macba, CCCB and other venues.
• Catalonian Moto GP: Motorbike Championships. Circuit de Catalunya.

July

• Festival Grec: Summer arts programme. Teatre Grec and other venues.
• Summer Nights: Evening arts performances. CaixaForum.
• International Dance Festival in Urban Landscapes. Various Venues.
• Mostra International Gay & Lesbian Film Festival. Various Venues.
• Summercase: two days of top pop acts. Parc del Forum.
• B-Estival: Eclectic R&B festival. Poble Espanyol and Espacio Movistar.
• Bread and Butter Barcelona: Hip trade fair for style queens and trendsetters. Fira de Barcelona.

August

• Fiesta de Gracia: Competitive street decorating and live music. Gracia.
• Fiesta de Sants: Summer street party. Sants.
• Summer Nights: Evening arts performances. CaixaForum.

September

• National Day of Catalonia: Sardane dancing and flag waving. Streets and parks.
• La Mercè Fiesta: Party time in honour of Barcelona’s patron saint. Everywhere!
• BAM: Eclectic music festival. Everywhere!
• Weekend Dance: Barcelona: Dance music event. Parc del Forum.
• Hipnotik: Breakdance and rap event. CCCB.
• Asia Festival: Celebration of Asian culture. Mercat de les Flors and CaixaForum.
• Catalan Wine and Cava Show. Maremagnum.
• Barcelona Book Market. Passeig de Gràcia.

October

• Barcelona International Jazz Festival. Palau de la Musica, Bikini and other venues.
• Kosmopolis: Biennial international literature festival. CCCB.
• Docupolis: International documentary film festival. CCCB.
• The Barcelona International Gay & Lesbian Film Festival. Various venues.
• ArtFutura: Festival of new media, videogames and animation. Mercat de les Flors.

November

• Barcelona International Jazz Festival. Palau de la Musica, Bikini and other venues.
• Record Collector’s Fair. Palau Sant Jordi.

December

• Fira de Santa Llucia: Christmas fair of nativity scenes and shitting logs (yes.). Barcelona Cathedral.
• BAC! Barcelona International Festival of Contemporary Art. Various venues.