It’s not all Irish, tapas and trendy bars, dontcha know? There are places altogether more surreal and not particularly Barcelona to be found (or very Barcelona, depending on your perspective). Here is a mini crawl of quirky bars near La Rambla:

Bosc de les Fades
Pasaje de la Banca

Welcome to the twilight zone: this bar, otherwise translated as, Forest of the Fairies, is just that. Venture down a narrow hard-to-find alley and under an archway to enter into the otherworldly atmosphere of woodlands at dusk. Tree trunks hold up a ceiling of foliage hung with lanterns. Waterfalls wash over mirrors that may not be reflecting just you. Armchairs sit by a fake fire to keep you warm while you wait for the loo. Unfortunately this bar is not peopled by hobbits or even elves, it is merely peopled, though drink a few more of those fairy ales and they might just end up being friends.

Bar Pastís
Santa Monica 4

France is not that far from Barcelona, though not quite a day trip. For a night trip over the border one must merely escape the fairies and cross La Rambla. Bar Pastís is possibly more French than France. Opened in the late 40s by two characters known as Carme and Quime, this tiny bar pays homage to Edith Piaf, the Theatre of the Absurd and, of course, le jaune pastis. Live music a la French can be heard Sunday through to Thursday provided everyone ducks when the police wonder past. It gets crowded in here and either it’s not supposed to be or Carme and Quime adhere to the French tendency to find the slightest whiff of authority deeply suspicious. Chin Chin!

La Concha
C/Guardia 14

It’s way past midnight now and quirky is starting to seem a little quaint, n’est pas? Time to enter the dark, dirty, slightly disturbing backstreets of the Raval. La Concha continues the tribute theme with walls lined with Spanish gay icon Sara Montiel. Step across the threshold of this establishment and you enter a drag queen’s paradise, well, a fading queen’s final moments as she snaps her high heels and the make-up runs. If you’re lucky, she’ll grab the microphone anyway and intimidate you off the miniature dancefloor. If you’re not, there are always the hookah pipes to finish the night.

(photo by quu)

Highlights in November include several excellent exhibitions, the Barcelona International Jazz Festival and, for lovers of old vinyl, the Fira del Disc Colleccionista.

Fira del Disc Colleccionista – Record Collectors’ Fair
31/10 – 02/11/08

This event, held in the Palau Sant Jordi, offers over two million records and music memorabilia to fans every year. The auction often features clothes and instruments once belonging to famous musicians and, for the truly fanatical, the occasional strand of hair!

Palau Sant Jordi
Passeig Olímpic 5-7
Tel. 934 262 089

Barcelona International Jazz Festival
19/10 – 29/11/08

A variety of grand and intimate venues host Barcelona’s 40th International Jazz Festival. Among the impressive line-up playing in November are: Marc Copland, Matthew Herbert Big Band, Katie Melua and La Locomotora Negra.

Various Venues
www.barcelonajazzfestival.com

American Modernity at Fundació Joan Miró
01/11/08 – 25/01/09

This exhibition explores the development of modern art in the US with over 100 works by American artists such as George Bellows, Edward Hopper, Milton Avery and Mark Rothko. Focusing on the period from the end of the 19th to the end of the 20th century, sections include: landscape, avant-garde, photography, realism and abstract from the post-war period.

Fundació Joan Miró
Av Miramar, 1
Montjuïc
www.fundaciomiro-bcn.org

The Face behind the Movement at Mercat de les Flors
31/10 – 31/12/08

An intimate exhibition, El Rostre darrere el Moviment encourages an understanding of contemporary dance in Catalonia through the photography and words of the dancers themselves.

Mercati de les Flors, Centre de les Arts de Moviment
Lleida, 59
www.mercatflors.org

Julio González Retrospective at the MNAC
28/10/08 – 25/01/09

Over two hundred pieces by the 1930s avant-garde sculptor Julio González are bought together under the roof of the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. Iron and bronze sculptures, paintings, sketches and jewellery have been collected from the Centre Pompidou, the Valencia Institut d’Art Modern and the Reina Sofia in Madrid, among other illustrious galleries.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
C Mirador Palau Nacional, 6
www.mnac.es

Rodchenko: Building the Future at La Pedrera
14/10/08 – 05/01/09

The first major retrospective of Alexander Rodchenko in Spain, this exhibition offers 250 pieces reflecting the career of this revolutionary artist, including constructivist paintings, photography and posters.

Fundació Caixa Catalunya, Casa Mil�
Pg Gràcia, 92
www.fundaciocaixacatalunya.org

Alphonse Mucha at CaixaForum
19/09/08 – 18/01/09

Seduction, Modernity and Utopia celebrates the Czech artist’s profound influence on Art Nouveau and his contribution to advertising and theatre design. Includes many of his original drawings, photographs and other items.

CaixaForum
Av Marquès de Comillas, 6
www.lacaixa.es/caixaforum